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Climbing on Dachstein

The Dachstein limestone gives great handholds and has attracted generations of climbers. In recent years, the classic rock routes have been supplemented by other attractions - technical, fixed rope routes. In terms of climbing technique, they are easier and safer than pure rock climbing routes, but require some basic Alpine experience and knowledge of roping and safety techniques. Here is a small selection of the most attractive fixed rope routes in the vicinity of the Dachstein cable car.

The Irg fixed rope route
Starting from Koppenkar, the new fixed rope route goes via the south-east spur and then via the north ridge to the summit. The descent follows the fixed rope path that has existed for many years, the "Koppenkarstein West Ridge", via the Niederer Koppenkarstein to the Austriascharte and then to the Schladminger Glacier or the mountain station for the cable car on the Dachstein south face. This newly opened route is a great way of crossing the Koppenkarstein massif with the help of the Dachstein south face cable car, and is relatively unproblematic.
New: Ropeway!

Johann fixed rope route
(C to D, one passage E)*
The classic – a fixed rope route through the Dachstein south face!

This "Johann" fixed rope route on the south face of the Ramsau has opened up a spectacular link from the Alm region Ramsau Türlwandhütte (1700 m) to the Dachstein Glacier (2700 m). 700 metres of steel cable plus around 250 spikes for footholds were incorporated into the "Johann" – the result will delight any climbing fan. Despite its fine safety elements, "The Johann" is completely absorbing. A great route for experts – one to really get the heart racing! Access it from the valley station of the south face cable car via the Südwandhütte (1871 m). The exit is right next to the Seetalerhütte on the Dachsteinwarte.


The Ramsauer fixed rope route
(A/B to C)*

An enjoyable route of moderate difficulty, but with terrific views of the landscape! The "Ramsauer Klettersteig" was opened in 1986 and links the part-secured climb from the Gruberscharte via the Hohe Rams to the Scheichenspitze with the similarly secured crossing from the Edelgriesshohe via the Gamsfeldspitze. The route can be done in both directions (Route 673).

* Text and route details from "Klettersteige & leichter Fels Österreich Ost", 5., updated and expanded edition April 2004, Schall-Verlag, Vienna; http://www.schall-verlag.at/
Other routes
are shown in climbing guide books – e.g. "Kletterarena Dachstein Süd" – which are available at the counter of the Dachstein cable car valley station!



 




 
 




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